Alexandre Mattiussi returned to form with AMI’s Fall/Winter 2023 runway show. Held inside the grand Opéra Bastille, AMI welcomed hundreds of Paris Fashion Week attendees into the Carlos Ott-designed contemporary opera house, lining the halls with a plush cream carpet, picnic chairs, and candescent lighting.
Commencing the show was an unraveling of tailoring, perfected as expected from the brand. Silk shirts, boxy chore jackets, and shoulders to die for were all a buffet of cream, a tonal color that perfectly highlighted AMI’s execution. Underneath we find sheer tank tops and roll necks, a sign that implied AMI’s tailoring — and clientele — is destined for city-chic appointments.
As the collection continued, tailoring became looser and relaxed, suggesting the city-goer was now at home lounging in their daily wear. Trousers from before were now navy blue and cut even looser with a cargo pant touch as pockets graced the high-legged sides, and belts incorporated into the trouser’s waistband began to drape on the floor alongside equally at-ease outerwear.
A diverse age range helped to depict AMI’s wearer — simply, anyone with an eye for a good cut. Whether it was double or single-breasted, sleeveless, floor-length or cropped, jackets and coats explored the brand’s ability to dress its vision up or down. From dresses and tops that shimmered brighter than the Eiffel Tower to crystal embellishments on a blazer (a nod to a big FW23 trend à la Gucci, FENDI, BLUEMARBLE and others), the collection began to sparkle, in more ways than one.
Shrunken baby blue wool polo tops put a smile on the showgoers’ faces, for it welcomed a sort of youthful nostalgia; reminiscent of the kind of outfit a young professional would wear to make an impression, perhaps. A cropped pastel yellow leather bomber jacket conjured the same image, while oversized suede and shearling jackets, womenswear blazers and luxurious navy blue wool boiler suits were borrowed from our parent’s wardrobe — only now reimagined for someone on the go.
To cover it all up, AMI presented a stand-out suede belted trench coat, and for a reveal, crystal-encrusted sheer tops that come out to play at night.