HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE never fails to put on a show, however, today’s Spring/Summer 2024 presentation at Paris Fashion Week almost brought tears to the showgoers’ eyes. In what Mr. Miyake might have considered a creative and technological marvel, the show conjured thoughts of what the late designer might have produced himself — a sort of magical, artistic, moving piece of live performance art that eloquently told the story of the clothes and the brand.
In short, it’s as if HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE made the clothes human. The show started with three models rolling out a long sheet of pleated fabric, in which we could see the shapes of garments laid flat inside. Next, a dozen or so staffers cut into the pleated material, opening up sections to reveal the pieces of clothing — long-line T-shirts, bags, dresses, boxy tees, V-neck long-sleeves and more all bounced off the floor, unraveled themselves, and soon found themselves being worn on models who then took to the runway.
It was a spectacle unlike anything anyone had ever seen, and the impact didn’t stop there. Next came the complete collection, comprising bright red pleated wrap skirts and elongated tank tops, car coats, boxy vests and shirts, dusters and windbreaker-like outerwear numbers, suit jackets, a dressing gown coat in electric pink, and so much more.
SS24 was a testament to HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s ability to craft anything from its proprietary pleated material and not just make it work, but make it feel instantly recognizable, instantly wearable, and instantly desirable. This was a collection that wasn’t just about clothes, but rather a way to explore how clothes can make us feel.
In a series of geometric-graphic-printed twinsets, we felt excited, actionable, and fired up to tackle the world in HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE; on the contrary, clean white pleated essentials allowed us to step back and admire simplicity at work, still making an impact despite its subtleties.
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