At first glance, the bright, unrestrained looks in the Fall 2023 Schiaparelli Haute Couture collection appear slightly out of character for the house. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry tends use minimal color while emphasizing the codes of the house such as clever accessories, eye motifs and surrealism. The new collection continues to embrace that spirit, but with a new approach.
"I wanted to make an impossible wardrobe — impossible not because it's not wearable, but because it's so extraordinary," Roseberry said in show notes. It became "a Surrealist's interpretation of a woman's essential closet."
The collection champions mixing separates to explore a newfound sense of disobedience. Rather than garments that appear forcefully coordinated, Roseberry wanted to create outfits that felt "more organic, more sensual, more impromptu." A crocheted and oversized snood, embroidered with pearls, slouches above a contrasting black, bias-cut skirt. Corsets cinch the waist alongside trapeze pants that force no silhouette. Pops of electric blue add surprise to otherwise monochromatic looks. Sticking with Schiaparelli's tradition of surrealism, there is also trompe-l'œil throughout, from imagery on a coat to cutouts on a garment.
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https://fashionista.com/2023/07/schiaparelli-haute-couture-fall-2023-collection-review