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It-boy mobs, industry heavyweights and Orville Peck in New York City’s East Village on Saturday night could only mean one thing: an Eckhaus Latta show was happening. On the fourth floor of Performance Space New York, namesake visionaries Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus set a dark, misty stage for their Fall/Winter 2023 runway. There, the nonconformist imprint presented a range informed by a quote from The New Yorker writer Rachel Aviv’s debut book, Strangers to Ourselves: “Culture shapes the scripts that expressions of distress will follow.”
On the spotlit path, White Lotus‘ Jon Gries (yes, the actor who played the conniving husband of Jennifer Coolidge’s dearly-missed Tanya McQuoid) made his fashion week debut wearing a composition yellow-and-green mohair sweater with relaxed, roomy trousers. His look was followed by a posse of linen cuts — specifically, button-down shirts, raw trousers and skirts — as well as a legion of slate-grey ensembles. Among them, a matching cardigan and straight pants were decorated with black zippers sprawling up, down and across their wearer for desired levels of exposure.
Vests were all the rage. In look 15, a shearling iteration sported blue color blocking, pairing nicely with wide-legged jeans; look 18 included a loosely knit, slightly-cropped take in “sand,” and look 22 redid the classic shape with an open-back construction.
Bottoms sought attention, too. Barbie-pink corduroy snap trousers saw a sea of front-row iPhones rise in unison, while a Husk Pant lit the runway in fluorescent green. A playful Club Skort flaunted kaleidoscopic stripes in a colorway the brand calls “Spritz,” and denim received a “Geode” treatment with sprayed streaks of orange, blue and green. In coated indigo, ultra wide-leg jeans glistened under the lights, proving to be the collection’s hero.
Later, organza played a trick on the eyes, appearing wet — or, dare I say, moist. In look 28, the sheer textile scrunched and clung to a model’s body as if she’d just been dunked in the pool. In look 29, the orange-hued fabric composed a button-down shirt with a pointed shape, still looking stylishly damp. In all, Eckhaus Latta’s FW23 designs emphasized the fun in fluid fashion while still prioritizing wearability.
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