The skincare market has become awash with face oils in recent years; whether you’re after firmer skin, a brighter glow or deeper hydration, there’s a formula promising to deliver.
Yet the very notion of applying oil to the skin still strikes fear in some – surely, more oil equals more problems? Even if you’re already on board with face oils, mystery surrounding how to use them correctly (bigger still, how they actually work) abounds.
Here, we call on the experts to divulge the truth on face oils, from how they should be harnessed to the skin types that should be slathering them on. Read on for everything you need to know...
What is a face oil, and what do they do?
Contrary to popular belief, face oils are not simply mega moisturisers – in fact, they aren’t classed as moisturisers at all. As oils are not humectants, they can’t pull moisture in from the surrounding environment, and therefore cannot actually hydrate the skin.
As Dr Bibi Ghalaie explains, oils should not be billed as moisturisers, “as they do not sink into the dermis and bind water to skin cells like moisturising creams or ointments do.” Instead, they sit on the skin’s surface (the epidermis) and prevent water from leaking out.” In this way, they can be considered a good sealant (an ‘occlusive’) for the skin, helping to form a protective layer.
Where do face oils sit in a routine?
It’s because of this occlusive nature that oils must be applied as the last step in your skin routine: slather a serum on top, and it won’t penetrate the oil, rendering it useless. However, applying a nurturing oil over the top of a good hyaluronic acid treatment, for example, will seal the deal, ensuring you get the most from your product.
“For me an oil is a booster product that can be used when needed, rather than an everyday staple – unlike a hydrator, which should be used every day” says Debbie Thomas, advanced skin and laser expert at D. Thomas Clinic. “A few drops of oil could be a better option than constantly switching moisturisers when you feel you need a little more of a boost.”
Which skin types do face oils suit?
According to Thomas, dry skin types will benefit most from a face oil: “especially skin with flaky dry patches, or a tight, dry sensation,” she says.
However, Dr. Ghalaie believes that almost every skin type can benefit from an oil: the key is simply using the right one. “Actually, all skin types can potentially benefit from an oil. The trick to using one in your skincare routine correctly and successfully is to select an oil that is well suited to your particular skin type” she says.
Acneic and easily congested skin should approach face oils with caution – but there's no need to discount them completely. Some oils are notorious pore-cloggers – as a general rule, avoid mineral oil, coconut and argan oils on the skin – but others, like tea tree and jojoba can work wonders for breakout-prone and easily upset complexions. As Thomas adds, a small amount of a well-chosen oil can even work wonders in counteracting the drying effects of traditional acne medications. There is no hard and fast rule – the key is to find the formula that works for you, and stick to it.
“The heaviness of an oil is determined by its molecular weight and this will affect which skin type it can be used on,” says Dr. Ghalaie. For example, jojoba oil is extremely lightweight and helps dissolve sebum, so it’s perfect for combination skin, while grape seed oil has astringent properties and is suited to oily skin. Drier skin needs a heavier oil and particularly ones rich in oleic acid, which is very hydrating and helps to seal in moisture – try almond and marula oils. And for sensitive skin, Dr. Ghalaie recommends aloe vera and moringa, which have strong anti-inflammatory properties.
Are essential oils good for skin?
Much has been made of the use of essential oils – such as tea tree, lavender and peppermint – due to their tendency to react on especially sensitive skin. Not all face oils contain essential oils, but some brands use them heavily, thanks in no small part to their aromatherapeutic powers.
“Essential oils, which are fragranced, are not the same as non-fragranced oils,” says Thomas. “Essential oils do have some benefits but are much more likely to cause irritation and reactions, so it’s best to avoid them.”
As Ghalaie adds, some essential oils – she namechecks tea tree and lavender – are generally extremely well tolerated (and beneficial) to skin, but others should be avoided, as “they are considered high risk in terms of causing sensitivity and adverse reaction on the skin.” The main offenders? “Cinnamon, clove, lemongrass and black pepper oil are notorious for causing skin reactions,” she says, and should never be used around the eye area or on inflamed, broken skin. Thankfully, these oils are very rarely found in skin products today.
What’s more, those with nut allergies should never use oils derived from nut trees, and certain citrus oils can cause increased sun sensitivity.
Below, discover the very best face oils to try now, from a fragrance-free soother for sensitive skin, to the ultimate hydrator for eternally dry complexions.
The best face oil for every skin type
Scandi brand Verso specialises in retinolformulas, and its latest is a true feat of formulation. The brand collaborated with an independent molecular scientist to create an entirely new retinol molecule to be used in its Super Elixir face oil: fusing niacinamide with vitamin A, the result is an active that proves more efficacious, stable and – crucially – easy to tolerate than the alternatives.
In fact, you'll be surprised at how nourishing and softening this supercharged treatment feels: a single drop each evening soon delivers brighter, clearer and more unified skin.
Augustinus Bader has released several new products of late, but The Face Oil remains a highlight – especially now we're flirting with sub-zero temperatures.
It contains, of course, the brand's much celebrated Trigger Factor Complex – a cocktail of proteins and vitamins that the skin immediately recognises and utilises – alongside non-comedogenic babassu and hazelnut oils.
If you're happy using the brand's original creamon its own then you don't need this. (All of Bader's formulas are designed to perform as stand-alone products.) But if you're after longer-lasting moisture, this is the perfect add-on. What's more, it makes a flawless base for make-up, adding glow without grease.
Usually, the success of a face oil is all in the quality of the ingredients, rather than the complexity of the blend.
Proof that quality presides over quantity, Drunk Elephant's no-filler formula contains nothing more than high-grade, cold-pressed oil from the pip of the African marula fruit: an extract high in antioxidant and antimicrobial properties that soothes and protects all skin types.
For a heftier rejuvenating boost, there's also now the retinol-infused A-Gloei oil. Both are free from essential oils (as per the brand's ethos) and suitable for all skin types.
https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/beauty/skincare/news/g22402/best-facial-oils/
